After ten days in Moscow[*], I left that metropolis behind me yesterday to spend my last few days in Russia exploring some of the cities in the so-called "Golden Ring". On the excellent advice of [livejournal.com profile] ms_redcat, I decided to get out of the capital and see a bit more of what some would term the "authentic" Russian experience.

Thus, my dear friends, I am currently writing this entry from a lovely little rustic hotel in Suzdal, with plans to move on to Vladimir later today. This is a sample of what Suzdal looks like, from a picture that I took of one of the many picturesque sites at dusk yesterday:

Sunset Suzdal

(click for full-sized version)


The Golden Ring is a modern name for a group of eight cities that form something vaguely resembling a circle, or ring, to the NorthEast of Moscow. They were founded in roughly the same period, about the eleventh and twelfth century, as invading tribes pushed people out of Kiev, which was then the capital of Kievan Rus, a proto-Russian nation.

Moscow was one of the settlements founded during this period. I suppose one could say that, technically speaking, Moscow is a Golden Ring city. In the medieval period, the Golden Ring settlements were rather wealthy, flourishing on trade with the West. Indeed, Vladimir was once the capital, instead of Moscow! Eventually, though, Moscow emerged dominant -- and remains so to this day.

That said, I must comment on how beautiful the Golden Ring area is... and what a difference it makes to get outside of Moscow! In the capital, there are many impressive sights. It is well worth visiting. However, most people there are dour and unfriendly to foreigners.

Before travelling to Moscow, I was warned that it was a dangerous city. I now believe that this is an exaggeration. My travel book concurs with my experience; the section on "Personal Security & Health" begins by saying: "Moscow is a safe city for tourists, despite its reputation." As with many places, petty crime -- like theft -- is a concern, but this can be avoided with basic precautions. At no point did I feel like I was in danger of any real harm.

That said, I was also warned -- by two friends who have spent considerable time in Russia -- that Moscow is not a friendly place for foreigners, particularly those of non-Russian ethnicities. This was definitely my experience. With a few notable exceptions, I found most Muscovites to be scowling and unhelpful. Twas was even true at places one would not expect, like at my hotel. For example, when I checked in on my first night, at 22:30, I asked if there was anywhere nearby I could get food after my long journey. The woman behind the counter dismissed me with a curt "no." I learned the next day that there is a restaurant right next door, which stays open quite late! Oy!

Lots of other examples like that, but I won't dwell on it. I saw many excellent and beautiful places in Moscow -- some of which shall be featured in upcoming LJ entries -- but you do get tired of people being rude and surly after awhile. In contrast, outside of the capital city, I have found folks to be much more welcoming. Some will chat with you randomly, others will return your smile with a smile, rather than a scowl. Strolling the streets, there is a pleasant feel, with sidewalk cafes and pubs open late into the night. A rather welcome change!

Off to go explore more of Suzdal now, before moving on to Vladimir later today. More later, gentle readers... including an answer to the mystery of Nomad's missing hair!


[*] This includes the conference! Twas not all sightseeing -- a fair portion of my time there was spent at LomCon-16.

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